week 1__________________________________
PARIS
In Paris I collected a lot of Textile inspiration in a variety of concept, department and fabric shops as well as Premiere Vision and museums.
In the saved photos I can see that I was very much drawn to mostly knitted textiles,
fabrics with embroidery beads or glitter,
fluffy yarns
and lace.
____________________________________week 2
COLLAGES
MOULAGES
With the collected photos I created Collages on the bodies I printed out. I chose a lot of women from classical paintings as I felt very drawn to how the bodies were portrayed very focused on the women"s emotions and beauty
Following the advice from my design teacher I decided to get inspired by this one collage I made.
I tried to recreate something of that kind of volume by draping the fabric around the mannequin and creating gatherings.
To recreate the lace on the bottom of the dress I printed it out and pinned it to the bottom.
It was an interesting exercise to do, yet I don't really see a silhouette that I'd like to recreate as a garment.
week 3__________________________________
COLLAGES
I extended this collage with AI to turn it into a long gown.
I really love the layered transparency creating opaque overlaps and how the ruffle effect matches the body and emotion of it.
I definitely want to develop this further and create moulages based on it.
I extended this collage with AI to see it as a full body visual. I really like how the different lace looks mixed. The silhouette looks very regency era which is not something I want to go for but it is an inspiring collage for fabric development.
These collages were based on a vibe I like visually. Especially the first two are very aligned with my vision for my design language.
MOULAGES
I had one big piece of chiffon to use for my moulages so I started by draping it around the chest. I tried out tying the leftover into a big bow and really like the aggressively cutesy look to it.
The moulage on the right I liked the accentuation of the chest and kind of heart looking open space.
With the other big chiffon piece I tried around a lot also inspired by my collages.
I really liked the corset and underbust looking elements and would like to develop them further.
FABRIC EXPERIMENTS
I love the traditional background and hyper femininity that makes so unique within fashion, and thats why i knew from the beginning that I'd want to use it for my collection.
During my research I found often a lot of imagery of people depicted in the lace and it inspired me to create my own contemporary take on that.
DIGITAL EMBROIDERY
As a lace experiment I created a pattern where naked female bodies are hidden within the lace.
I wanted to have these naked silhouettes as an unconventional element to this traditional fabric to give it an ironic and contemporary twist.
The improved lace has the silhouettes and text way more camouflaging into the lace which supports my intention with this fabric even more.
To develop it further I want to edit the stitch type to have the flower petals pop more as well as the thin outline on the chest to be thicker.
I translated my idea of making a pattern where naked female bodies are hidden within the lace into a stitch pattern to knit.
It took me a bunch of experimentations to achieve the right material combination.
PUNCH LACE KNITTING
The linen yarn combined with a slightly brownish yarn is the first experiment where I was happy with the portrayal of my pattern and the feel of the lace.
The linen gave it the integrity and structure it needed to depict the silhouettes.
Since in a garment I would need ruffled lace in quite a wide width I was looking for a solution in making a vertical lace stitch pattern (right) .
I ruffled the lace with the sewing machine afterwards and added lace trimmings I found at the store.
I realized I love the combination of the different lace techniques and the way the plissé breaks the softness of the lace.
____________________________________week 4
MOULAGING
I did a first moulage trying to recreate my collage exactly.
I used my knitting experiments to recreate the variety of materials. Since that silhouette was not exactly my own style and design language,
I decided to use this moulage
as a starting point for more
variations to find out what I
like and dislike.
With every variation of my moulages I came closer to the style that speaks to me in my concept. It became obvious to me that I prefer silhouettes that show off the body as well as create volume.
Learning from my moulages before, with this collage I didn't try to recreate it identically but to moulage something that I imagine the body wearing when I look at the collage.
I love the open back and way of closing with a bow on the neckline as well as the train of the dress.
BEADING & DRAPING
This collage inspired me through the emotion it evoked in me of melting away, so I started moulaging based on that inspiration and feeling.
The moulaging and overall design concept inspired me so much that I decided to do a proper half scale "toile" version of the melting dress idea.
A NAKED DRESS
As I found out through my concept research, the female nude body plays a huge part in classical art. It would always depict a hairless, holy and pure goddess or nymphs, never real women.
This painting of Goya is most likely the first time an artist had painted a real woman with pubic hair and a confident pose looking at the viewer.
At the time this was seen as impure and a scandal.
I looked at known examples of nudity in fashion and especially on the runway.
The female nudity is often used in a sex-sells aspect but in the most cases I found it was more of a statement for shock value and rebellion.
Hussein Chalayan
Galliano
Vivienne Westwood
Jean Paul Gaultier - the naked dress
Jean Paul Gaultier's example of expressing this infamous nudity in an ironic way, is the most know and inspiring to me.
The way he "artistifies" the female anatomy and like that creates a space where women can be provocative without exposed.
I really like the power it holds for a woman to appear nude in some kind of way but to be fully covered. As female sensuality is often seen as vulnerability and dangerous to express for a woman, this design concept makes fun of it and reclaims the body and power behind it.
To empower women, do we have to cover or reveal them?
Shelter or liberate them?
Protect or expose?
floats side
right side
As I find this thought process behind the naked dress and what I associate with it very inspiring and fitting for my concept I decided to explore that further and develop knits of naked bodies.
I created different versions of the pattern to achieve different types of outcomes.
The swatches on the top have a higher contrasting pattern so they are less photorealistic and more artistically representing the body.
The patterns to the left have a way higher detail density where the fine differences of shadows can be seen more.
I like the higher contrast pattern more as the knit appears more powerful to me and not an exact adaptation of the image.
I find the "wrong" side of the fairisle floats also very interesting as it shows the image in reverse and with a lot of structure.
week 5__________________________________
RESEARCH & EXPERIMENTATION PITCH
FEEDBACK
Reflection:
of the pattern to achieve different types of outcomes.The swatches on the top have a higher contrasting pattern so they are less photorealistic and more artistically representing the body.
The patterns to the left have a way higher detail density where the fine differences of shadows can be seen more.I like the higher contrast pattern more as the knit appears more powerful to me and not an exact adaptation of the image.
COLLECTION ANALYSIS'
Favorite Looks
Reflection:
I felt really drawn to this collection, because if the way Simone Rocha combines hyperfemininity with masuline design elements. It gives the traditional designs a contemporary twist while still making me feel nostalgic. She uses quite a variety of design elements and different textures and yet the collection still looks coherent. I aspire to adapt this kind of continuity when I work on my lineup. This collection has definitely given me a lot of inspiration towards interconnect my lineup in a sharp way.
Reflection:
What I really loved about this collection is the sense of empowerment, confidence and self expression that is embodied within the clothes. I felt really drawn to the flowing ruffles combined with stronger stiffer fabrics, it symbolizes a feminine romantic woman with a strong and confident edge to me. I can take a lot from this design practice to learn how to give a bold edge to my lineup while still highlighting the femininity.
Favorite Looks
Favorite Looks
Reflection:
I decided to visually analyze this collection because of the modern take Aksu took in these super traditional female silhouettes and textures. I love the layering of different lace and complementary colors and patterns. The story behind this collection is the most intruiging to me especiallly the part of Aksu turning "Trauma into Beauty" is something i can really resonate with in my concept.
Design Development exercise
After reviewing the collections I analyzed, Liselore gave me the advise to extract the design elements I find interesting and from there develop my own fabric experiments and design ideas.
FABRIC EXPERIMENTS
"sportification" of ruffles
To emphasize the versitality of empowering women and their femininty I want to find a way to combine classically feminine design element like ruffles and present them in a sporty way through material and presentation.
application experimentation
quilting knit
transparency & opaqueness
To add more dimension to the interlock knit I experimented with top stitching it to create a quilting effect and like that an unexpected look.
I also experimented with embroidering the title to add this continuing design element as well.
As opaqueness and transparency is also an important design element for me which represents multiple ways and contrasts of empowering women, I had to idea to layer mesh to achieve this effect.
To bring back the naked dress idea I made the opaque layers in shape of the body outlines,
To see how applicable the experiments are I did different moulaging and experimented on the mannequin to see what works on a body and got different inspirations from there to work further on.
__________________________________week 6 & 7
first draft of the line up
LINE UP DESIGN EDITING & IDEAS
MELTING DRESS TOILE
I made my first toile based on a half scale moulage.
I incorporated the mesh layering top create opaqueness in the intimate areas and to create visual intrigue. The hanging fabric pieces I draped my hand on the mannequin and attached them with the sewing machine after.
DESIGN EPIPHANY
When I tried on the dress over my skirt just to check the transparency on skin, the fabric gathered and I really loved the look and effect of the gatherings.
So I draped the dress on the mannequin like that and decided to incorporate bungee drawstring cords to create gatherings in the dress.
I really love the epiphany I had about the bungee cords as it adds this sporty contrast to the elegance that represents the contrast I was looking for.
It adds something new and contemporary and refelcts my concept very well.
Reflection:
The fitting went very well, I like the way the opaqueness showed up the skin and how it fits on Mya's body.
Notes for Improvement:
The collar needs to be made wider and attached in a more asymmetrical way.
I ant to create more volume for the drapings, so I'm gonna experiment with tulle layered underneath.
The layered mesh shapes should be asymmetrical.
NAKED DRESS TOILE
knit experiments
adding draw cords for continuity
Inspired by my bungee gathering epiphany I added the drawstrings as an under-bust detail that gives design continuity and add the sportyness element to this outfit as well.
I really like how this detail already elevates the knit and adds another dimension to it.
I made a rough jersey toile of what pattern I'm imagining for the dress.
To make it more interesting I thought about adding reglan sleeves.
DESIGN CHANGE DECISIONS
Having only this knit sample pinned on the mannequin inspired me to change the pattern of the dress to a sleeveless dress with separate raglan sleeves with turtleneck .
My sleeve toile showed me that I did not like the balloon raglan sleeve idea and with the teachers we got the idea to have tight sporty rib sleeves with a turtleneck and like that blend the outfit more into the collections design language.
BOW DRESS TOILE
DESIGN CHANGE DECISION
For this dress I had the idea to reinterpret a strait-jacket, but with disfunctional sleeves to symbolize freedom and empowerment.
When I tied he sleeves on he front how I initially planned to, it felt like they were covering most of the design.
I tried other ways to still incorporate the sleeves but make it a more interesting design in the front.
I came to the conclusion that tying the sleeves over the arms towards the back still brings the straitjacket symbol across without covering an interesting closing.
For the further development of this outfit I want to figure out which knit technique I want to use for the skirt and top.
I want to change the closing to bungee cords instead of hooks to give a consistent hardware element to the collection.
Reflection:
Since it will be a fully knitted look and its hard to visualize the feel with jersey it was a more difficult toile to make.
Nonetheless the fitting gave me a lot of insights and ideas on how to make the design more intriguing and fitting to the collection.
Notes for Improvement:
The hooks have to be changed to bungee bows and I need to create more slip stitch patterns to figure out the knit.
Design change:
When looking at the fitting photos this design doesn't have the sex appeal to match my concept. I thought of the design option to lift the skirt through a PVC like garter-belt on top og the skirt. I will experiment with that idea for the next fitting.
week 8 & 9________________________________
PINK DRESS TOILE
lace experimentation
research for the perfect pink
For this look I wanted to create a look fully from knitted punch lace.
I created multiple graphics of female silhouettes to turn into stitch patterns.
Considering I needed very wide panels for the ruffles I experimented with "vertical lace" to be able to knit as long s i needed without casting off.
When knitting for the top rib I started off with a hot pink but realized that it didn't fit the shade of the lace at all.
I spent time trying out different yarns and yarn mixes to be able to find the perfect shade of pink.
Reflection:
As I imagine this to be a fully knitted look I am glad I included a lot of knitted elements in the toile so I could see what will hvae to be chamged within the technique as well. I dont know if it is simply because the toile is not so well executed yet or if it is the design that doesn't sit quite right wiht me but so far I don't really love the look so I want to develop not only the toile but also the design.
Notes for Improvement:
I need to change the lace to be knitted in the correct direction so it drapes nicer. Also instead of a heavy rib I should try a folded hem. For the dimensions the ruffle layers need to be shorter and wider.
improvement plan
To improvement the toile I made following plans:
- re-measureing and calculating the ruffles.
- using a different technique to create a flip over hem for the knit.
- attaching the ruffle to an elastic band instead of a rib
BLACK LACE SET TOILE
For this look I wanted to create a look fully from knitted punch lace .
I created a tailored graphic of female silhouettes & the title to turn into a lace top, the imagery perfectly outliningthe shape of the perosan wearing it.
I used the same "vertical lace" as for the pink toile before.
Reflection:
The overall fit of the toile was not really satisfactory to me since the ruffles ended up being way too short and didn't end up gathering how I imagined. The top was slightly too big for the models chest so the pattern did not show up as nicely. The collar did not work on a real human so I am thinking of changing that to a closed turtleneck collar.
Notes for Improvement:
The ruffles need to be way longer for sue and the measurements of the layers need to be changed. The waistband needs to be wider so the skirt sits lower and the collar needs to be closed.
NAKED DRESS SAMPLES
I tried to make real size jacquard samples for the naked dress of the graphic i turned into a stitch pattern.
Unfortunately such a big project is not possible without the machine glitching or dropping stitches.
Thats why my samples have these lines in them or are skewed.
Thats the reason I reached out to KnitwearLab.
I had a meeting with them to tell them my vision also about having a 2x1 rib in the waist are to create shaping and sinching within the knit. They really like the idea and told me it was very possible to make.
Now I have to find out the exact proportions & measurements I need, doing a real sized sublimation print of the pattern will be the best option for that.
FABRIC & MATERIAL EXPERIMENTATION
After talking to different teachers I got feedback for what technique I should use for the bow look.
I was told that representing the bow would be a nice idea, Marco on the other hand told me that I should represent the gun within my fabric as well.
So I create a few of my own stitch patterns and tried them out within different techniques.
week 10________________________________
For this week I made a plan specifying which exact changes/updates I need to make to every single toile.
This organisation is to give me structure in the time leading up to the midterm but also for me to identify what my priorities are in this limited time.
6TH TOILE DEVELOPMENT
For the 6th toile I kept the planning very free, all I knew that I wanted to incorporate was the underbust bungee corset.
The free and experimental process (which was out of my comfort zone since I had a set plan).
I draped the dress on the doll and started pinning away pieces in the waist area to create tunnels for the bungee cords. This took me many tries and a lot of unpicking the stitches. But even during the first term I already saw that I wanted to have the tunnels since they created such beautiful draped pleats.
This dress turned very sexy really quick which I was very happy with since that look was still kind of missing for my concept, so I decided to add a slit in the leg and also knit my own stocking.
During a meeting with Saskia we discussed the room for improvement on this dress, how I should add a seam nd pleat on the back and edit the slit so it will fit the shape of the body more.
LINE UP DEVELOPMENT
This creative and free process made me realise how much I liked the outcome and had me reflect my whole lineup all over again.
I went back to the pink dress cause something felt wrong since the first toile. The design just felt out of place next to the other designs and needed more sportiness but also sexiness.
For the black dress less change was needed but adding a slit with a gathered bungee cord on the top just made it so much more fitting to the design language than before.
I started right off by changing the toile itself, adding tunnels for the bungee cords over the hips and gathering them. I had to add more fabric to be ale to pull the gathering up like that.
This first draft of a tole helped me see which improvement were still needed like adding more fabric under the bungee cords,
I applied the changes of the new fabric on the sides, and also knitted a new piece for the top to not have the disturbing bright pink anymore.
I also decided to add the embroidered undercuts corset since that does not yet have a look for applications.
While fitting it on the model I really liked the look without the ruffles. They simply feels out of place and the look itself feels way more coherent without,
The change of this toile really made it way nicer already and helps me see the vision for the final piece a lot.
I'm glad I can compare the knitted lace next to the chiffon in the tole. It shows me that the knit really doesn't drape so nice still compared to the chiffon.
So I got the idea to have the ruffle applications be black chiffon to match with the black opaqueness of the ribs and then only have the skirt and top itself out of the knit.
Since the BOW look reminded me way too much of a long skirt church girl I wanted to enhance the design by styling the skirt to be lifted in the front.
BOW LOOK DESIGN DEVELOPMENT
I did a few experiments to see how that would work and ended up deciding that it only works if it is gathered in the front, which matches my design as well, and that I would have to add more fabric in the back to achieve a nicer lift.
NAKED DRESS TOILE
I made a sublimation print to see how the proportions I calculated work for the body. The first one was way too long and wide so I did one again and that one already fit better but needs to be skewed ti be a bit shorter and the boobs to be closer together.
To create more volumes in the drawings I followed Saskias advice to use a circle shape. This turned out super nice and I love the volume and layering it gets from that. I will definitely do that for all my gatherings for the final dress,
BOW LOOK DESIGN DEVELOPMENT
MIDTERM CHECK
DESIGN FEEDBACK
Reflection:
The feedback for the designs are very helpful because it makes me see very clearly which changes I have to make to make them more powerful.
I will follow this feedback to make changes on the design and also take a critical look again at my designs and change what I don't like or what doesn't feel right.
DESIGN CHANGES
white look
Changes & Decisions:
I was already very content with this look but want to elevate the silhouette by adding more volume on the sides and making the dress itself longer and more flared so it blends in with the draped pieces.
To add this strength and intimidation I want to add this bullet shaped beads as aglets to the bungee cords.
Since this look is quite romantic and innocent I wanted to add some form of provocative accessorie, I came to the idea to add a veil with a provocative statement since my design language is very statement based.
Changes & Decisions:
This look needs some dramatisation in the silhouette to become more powerful so I used the feedback and will add a very long big train. I also thought of adding a hood to add a feeling of covering and protection to the quite revealing look.
To add an intimidating accessory I thought about adding a fully silver knife to match the metal hardware and add to the concept.
Changes & Decisions:
This look was quite a difficult one for me to figure out and felt very underwhelming. So I decided to add a balaclava as a statement piece adding to the feeling of intimidation & safety. I decided to make it a two piece instead of the dress to show a bit of bare skin and change the fit. I want to flare out the skirt way more and add a bit of a train to it.
Changes & Decisions:
For this look I realised the ruffles should be out of a black mesh and not knitted to create better ruffles that match the blackness of the ribs. I also want the overall silhouette to be more flared and maybe add a train.
To match with the design language of the other looks I want to turn the rib into a more underbust shape. As intimidating accessory I want to add gloves which have keys in between the fingers.
Changes & Decisions:
This look went under a lot of changes as my previous design had too many elements that didn't all fit together and distracted from the statement piece of the bow. So I followed the feedback and decided to create a top that looks like the big bow is wrapped around the upper body. The skirt I changed to be fully knitted. For the styling I thought about adding boxing wrapping around the hands to add some badass-ness to the sweet look.
Changes & Decisions:
For this dress I still need to finalise the measurements and final graphic. For that I measured the printed toile I made on the mannequin and also laying down. From these measurements I create a new graphic with the right proportions, I especially changed the chest area to ensure that the nipples are in the right spot.
LINE UP
find the process of making my final garments under LOOKBOOK
STYLING DAY
final styling
final styling
final styling
For the styling day I brought a bunch of different items, garments, accessories and fabric scraps.
Since I already had my photoshoot where I did where aesthetically fitting styling, I started off with very crazy & experimental styling.
From these experiments I looked back & decided on which elements I liked the most. Out of these I wld build the final styling for the show.
final styling