The Utility Skirt
This utility skirt empowers women to embrace transparency of their identity and of anything society might stigmatise. It celebrates femininity by showcasing it as a strength and a tool that women own.
FIRST DRAWING / BALENCIAGA CONNECTION
For this Design I was focusing on Balenciaga's most known for design language, irony and provocation, while connecting it with our concept of empowering women and celebrating their softness as a strength. By creating a mini skirt based on the structures of a utility belt I wanted to break the stigma of women being the weaker gender and provocatively play with the gender roles of males being the "handy men".
PATTERN DRAFTING / CLO PROTOTYPE
To create the patterns I drafted them in CLO3D, using the pleats tool, but as I proceeded I realized it felt more organic and efficient to me to make up a pattern with a first toile. To measure how much fabric I needed I calculated the pleat folds and waistband length. For the utility add ons I brainstormed over all the things I need in my daily life and reflected how the female Balenciaga customer could relate to these things.
PATTERN / MAKING PROCESS
I started my first sample with a cotton twill fabric to simulate the final fabric which is going to be a khaki cotton twill like cargo pants. I cut fabric the length of the skirt and then folded the knife pleats according to my calculations. I then used the waistband denim machine to add a waistband and then on top of that added loops I made with the denim beltloop machine.
1ST FITTING / SAMPLE
As feedback I received that the idea is really fitting the concept and the ironic design language of Balenciaga. A point to improve was to put the interesting loops in the front to put them in the focus, also especially to not sit on the sunglasses. To make the skirt even more functional I should add a slanted pocket. The overlocked finished edges are fitting the style, yet they look a bit cheap and loose, the improvement idea I received was to add a facing to make it more stable and high quality.
POCKET / FACING SAMPLES
For the next sample I created only a piece of the skirt to make a sample of the slanted pocket in between the pleats. I cut it out of lining fabric and then attached it in the crease of the pleats. For a higher quality finish I used waistband interfacing as a facing of the hem of the skirt.
2ND FITTING / SAMPLE
As Feedback I received that the entrance of the pocket is too small. There was also a discussion if I should make the pocket peak out or not, for that I should make a conscious decision considering the concept and the Balenciaga consumer. The facing looks very clean and gives a nice sharp Balenciaga look. We brainstormed if the facing should be made out of a different color or if it should match the skirt/pocket. For that I'll reflect on the consumers want to see how to finish it.
For the pocket I got the idea to make it out of see-through fabric and then to let it peak through. Like this the transparency and comfort to show and reveal everything is underlined and matches the provocative designs of Balenciaga.
BASE SKIRTS / ADD ONS
Following the feedback and research I did during the two toiles I created the final base of the skirt. For the facing I decided to fold it to the outside to underline the sharp and utility looks of the skirt. On the opening on the skirt I decided to add facings too for a cleaner finish. For the buckle I chose to match the color with the skirt, since it was the most elegant combination and underlines the idustrial color.
For the different loops and add ons I first made a few tryouts on the mannequin to see where I would put what. I kept the feedback of adding the interesting parts in the front and to add the loops at more different heights in mind.
Before stitching and securing all the loops I put on things like keys to see how the skirt would look "in action". For that I could notice points of improvement for example some add ons being too close to each other or covering the pocket too much.
LAST FITTING / FEEDBACK
On the last Fitting I received the feedback to add more loops for the tampons to make them more look like bullets. Another point of improvement was to make a french seam for the see through pocket to prevent it from rolling. For the empty space in the back of the skirt I was advised to either fill it with more loops or something like a branding.
FINISHING / EMBORIDERY
Following the last Feedback I added three loops for the tampons. I made them all in different sizes to be able to fit different sized tampons as well as other things like chapsticks, pens etc.
For the empty space in the back of the skirt I brainstormed what I could fill it with.
I chose to make it a meaningful
way of filling the empty space.
Since it is a literal gap I am
filling with a statement I got
the idea to embroider "Close the
pay gap". To incorporate the
teams concept print I exchanged
the S for a paragraph sign, also
hinting towards equal rights for
women.
