I'm freezing
... is a knitwear outfit symbolizing the hypothetical scenario of a future where the climate crisis has escalated to a point where humans have to adapt to two extreme weather conditions.
This outfit especially showcases the desperate attempt to dress for minus degrees while simultaneously witnessing heat waves which melt your ice cream...
BUBBLE CHAPS
first ideas
For the "Cold" outfit which primarily focuses on garment worn in cold weather and also has contradictory element of garments for hot weather, I wanted to make some thick and warm pants. For that I got inspired by "puffer" pants. So my plan was to create a statement pair of pants in purple matching the color coordination of my concept.
finding a technique & experimenting
I came across the "bubble technique made on double bed with dropped stitches, which really intreguied me since it had very dense and opaque parts but also delicate seehtrough ones, which fits my concept perfectly. So I created a few variations of this technqiue to see which one would serve best for the statement pants.
developing design & making the pattern
While gettig more in touch with my chosen "bubble technique" I decided to turn the pant idea into chaps for technical but also deisgn purposes. Chaps fit the concepts design loanguage better since it is a warm garment which is made irrational through its opening in the crotch. Tehcnically chaps work out great Since I can knit a long rectangle as the pant leg and then sinch it in the waist through weaving & gathering. Like that the chaps are made in an efficient way.
technical research on right yarn combination & technique variation
developing final sample & measurement swatch
Once I decided I was gonna use the bubble technique for the pants I did a wide range of hands on experimental research by knitting variations of the technique with varying yarn combinations. During this research & reflection on the sample swatches I saw a common thing I had an issue with: the looseness of the bubbles. Luckily I discovered mousse yarn which shrinks a lot and gives the bubbles the texture and stability that I was looking for.
After finding my ideal yarn combination and technique I created a bigger sample/measurement swatch whicb I fitted on my leg to already see how it would work on chaps. With that swatch I also created a digital mockup to visualize how the swatch would look if it was longer.
refining the technique
During the R&D meeting there were a lot of possibilities discussed about the sample swatch. The weight was a big topic and how, when longer, it would stretch out the bubbles turning them into egg shapes. We found multiple possibilities of changing the technique to prevent that from happening.
experimenting with possible options
Following the R&D discussion about altering the bubble shape I followed the feedback & suggestions and did multiple experiments based on these alterations. After I kept trying these altered techniques I came to the conclusion that trying to prevent the bubbles from turning into ovals will only turn the bubbles into squares and decided afteragreement from the knit teachers that I should stick with my original technique form the measurement swatch.
starting the final & leg fitting
I made a "manual" with the exact steps, needle positioning & row count to make 4 identical leg pieces.
Even though I used a big calculation swatch my leg turned out way longer than anticipated. After brainstorming and discussing with the teachers I came to the conclusion to deal with the lengths by steching, steaming and styling the chaps right.
final improvements
During the fitting of the final outfits we discussed to put in crin at the hem of the pants since the bubbles shrink together otherwise.
styling for the right fit
While adding the crin to the skirt panel I realized it would make the pant leg look like a circus tent so I decided against that.
Through a way of styling the pants which a high & thick boots, the pants got the straight shape I imagined.
OTTOMANN RIB BRA
After trying out the 3D ottoman rib exercise I got really inspired to create shape by using that technique. The way this swatch is very thick and warm and very thin at the elastic also plays inot the hyb ridity and fits my con cept very well of k itting panels which find shape on the body.
The initial plan was to create an asymmetrical top which partly transferring the ottoman rib to only single bed elastic. The panel turned out smaller than expected and was curved in a slight cup shape. This shape instantly reminded me of a bra cup and I proceeded to knit the same panel just mirrored for the oder side of the breast.
WEAVE TOP
After doing the 3D exercise weaving swatch I came to the idea to use weaving to shape and otherwise shapeless panel and sinch it in the areas where the body is smaller. After creating this panel I realized the weaving cord actually allows you to tie it around your body and wear it. This inspired me to have the way that I knit and use techniques be also functional and make the panel wearable. Also representing the "functionality" aspect of dressing for the weather.
To add cohesiveness and a clean finishing I added a 1x1 rib at the collar which tied the look perfectly together.
For the styling of the top I chose to tie it asymmetrically and irregularly to match the mood of a desperate way of adapting to the weather with.
GLITTER CAMO SHORTS
as a covering and layering piece I created a shorts pattern which I then transferred to a knitting pattern in DesignaKnit
After linking the pants I fitted them and came across some points for improvement. The center back was bulking out so I relinked it tighter in the shape of a dar. The hem of the legs was curling up so I hand sewed some elastic thread on the inside.
