IT'S SO HOT
... is a knitwear outfit symbolizing the hypothetical scenario of a future where the climate crisis has escalated to a point where humans have to adapt to two extreme weather conditions.
The "hot look" showcases the desperate attempt to dress for burning heat while simultaneously having to expect snow storms & flooding...
LAYER SKIRT
first ideas
For the "Hot" outfit which primarily focuses on garment worn in warm weather and also has contradictory element of garments for cold weather (boots, balaclava), I wanted to make a dual mini skirt with two different techniques. At first I wanted to create a pleated skirt inspired by a pleated swatch I made but when I discovered the duality of transparent and opaque within the bubble technique I changed my design to a ottomann rib skirt with a bubble knti layer.
looking for the right technique & experimenting
I made multiple different ottoman rib swatches, varying the yarns, techniques etc but couldn’t come to any result that satisfied or inspired me in any way I draped the way I imagined the skirt on a half scale mannequin to help me with my creative block when it came to the ottomann underlayer. One conclusion I could come to though; I want the ottoman rib to feature a contrast in the thickness of yarns.
technical research on right yarn combination & technique variation
Following the conclusion I made before, I chose delicate shiny/glittern yarns and thicker fluffy mohair yarns for the ottoman rib to symbolise the duality that the concept is about. Through a lucky accident I discovered a way to create a open&tucked ottoman rib by dropping a few needles. Thats how I finally came to my final technique (on the right).
developing design & making the pattern
To figure out how I would like to execute the skirt, I draped the swatches of the final technique on a half scale mannequin. I really like the outcome since the lacing fits the concept & design language very well, as well as the layering. I am also very satisfied with theplay of transparent and opaque since the stretch reveals the transparency of the lines in the skirt.
developing final sample & measurement swatch
After finding my ideal yarn combination and technique I created a bigger sample/measurement swatch to be able to calculate for the final skirt. To have an overview of the full outfit I have in mind for the skirt I created a digital mockup for the line up.
beginning of the final garment
I started off making my first panel, only to realize that it is too short. That turned out to be no issue because like that I could create a panel to then link them together tighter on the waist and wider on the bottom following the. natural curve of the body.
Since the waistline looked quite raw and also needed some shaping, I decided to add a 2x2 rib with yarn woven through (just like for the sleeve that I am holding next to the skirt on the left picture).
developing possible options for the layer piece
For the layer piece I also experimented with yarns and technique variations, looking for the perfect duality of opaque and transparent.
points of improvements from first fitting
During the R&D fitting I received very helpful feedback on how to improve the seam in the back, and how to further develop the layer piece.
final adjustments
At the last fitting I received good tips on how to do final improvements and adjustments to the waist line and layer piece.
FLEXIBLE SLEEVE
first ideas
When reflecting on the many sketches I did in the beginning of my concept developing process I could see a clear trend of either one glove or some one sided/ asymmetrical sleeve. Since a sleeve represents the irrationality of my concept very well I decided to make a single sleeve which can be attached on whichever arm.
finding the right technique
While discovering the final technique for my skirt, I payed attention to how the dropped stitches are flaring the hem and got immediately inspired to use this technique for the sleeve, as it beautifully reflects the skirt.
developing the final piece
with the sleeve pattern I followed the way I made the chaps; a long rectangle and a rib in the neckline with weaving yarn woven through to gather & sinch.
For a neater & more beautiful finishing I added a band in a matching green yarn combination.
TITLE SCARF
I created a text file on photoshop on how I wanted the scarf to look, then we transferred it into the software to turn it into a birdseye file for the shima seiki.
We then threaded the shima seiki and created a small measurement swatch. It turned out way too long so I edited my photoshop file to make the scarf way shorter.
in the beginning of trying the shima the second time, there were some errors due to a small pixel flaw. After correcting the error it worked out flawless.
